Indiana Jones-ish Bridges

Bridges: 1, 2, & 3.

Colca Canyon

Let me start by saying this: the distinction between flat and up/downhill in the Peruvian Andes is very different from that in the U.S. For example, the first day of our three-day hike in the Colca Canyon when we decended over 4,000 feet it was considered downhill. However, the second part of that first day on the other side of the canyon we climbed over 1,000 feet just under half an hour, and that was considered "flat!"

The Colca Canyon was definitely one of the highlights of the trip so far and we are both very glad that we not only decided against the bus tour, but that we did the three-day hiking tour instead of the two-day tour. As I said, the first day was a lot of walking down. Not down hill mind you, this is no U.S. federal park. We were walking, climbing, and crawling down the canyon where it's "one wrong sneeze and it's oversville." I'm so thankful to have recently aquired a mysteriously annoying and severe fear of heights. It was exhilirating to say the least. At the bottom, we went across the first of three Indiana Jones-ish foot bridges and started up the other side to our first night's lodging. I know we've all heard this before, but that night it was as though I was looking at all the stars I've ever seen in every night sky I've ever looked upon all on one black canvas sky.

The Point, a Bus, and the J's

Going from Cuzco to Puno on the bus was a pretty painless and relaxing experience, with the semi-cama seats reclining comfortably. The amenities at The Point, the hostel we stayed at in Puno and Arequipa, on the other hand were not so relaxing. And the bus we booked through The Point from Puno to Arequipa was dirty, uncomfortable, overpriced, and had a live informercial selling ginsing en Espanola very loudly up and down the isle. Verdict, The Point: only book if you want to do lots of drugs, drink 'til sunrise, and catch something that does not require a net or pole but can involve "catch and release."

On the other hand, the city of Puno was really cool, especially to view upon approach by bus over the mountains, as the city seemed to spill into the lake, or upon return from the islands by boat, as the city, from that vantage point, seemed to be clawing it's way up the mountains, escaping from the lake bay.

Silver lining in everything, right? Don't take the criticisms in this blog the wrong way. We are having one hell of a time, and wouldn't trade one bus experience for another, nor would we prefer a jail cell over a bad hostel bed. It's just...you know, I love to complain ;-) So, back to the bus. It was on that sh!tty bus to Arequipa that we ended up meeting Jeremy and Jessica. We, the four of us, were on the second floor of the bus sitting in the very front four seats and the only gringos on the entire bus. If that were not enough to make us fast friends, it turned out they used to live in Colorada and in Portland. We got along famously and had dinner and drinks on a fifth story balcony over looking the Plaza de Armas in Arequipa. Safe travels to you, Jeremy and Jessica!

The Nederlanders

Everyone on the Titicaca tour got on well, but we really had fun spending time and talking with a couple from the Netherlands. They had been traveling from Liima on their way to Cuzco and we were on our way to Lima coming from Cuzco. So, we told each other about our travels so far and our plans for travel over the next couple of weeks. Turned out they were going to Bolivia and is sounded super awesome, so we got excited to look into doing the same. We decided to travel together, but to first go and do research at our respective hotels, then meet for drinks and dinner. Turns out we did not have enough time to squeeze in Bolivia and the largest salt plains in the world, but we did have the best dinner of the trip. It was like hanging out with old freinds.


Pics: Inge smiling on the boat; Mark and Inge working with the kids at the Amantani school.

Mas Titicaca

On the second day, we cruised on over to the smaller island of Taquile, for another hike and lunch. We were on a tour with a group of three other couples and had lunch together at the top of the island. At the restaurant, the table was set up last supper style, so everyone had a beyond spectacular panoramic view of such natural beauty it almost made me choke...or maybe it was the spicy salsa and coca tea. On the way back to Puno I asked the guid if it was safe to swim and if we could stop the boat in the middle of the lake. Yes, yes, and hell yes I jumped into Lake Titicaca, joined by a brave cohort from Chicago/Russia. Oh, and yes, it was cold!!

Amantani

The second part of the day, we traveled to the middle of the lake to the island Amantani. No running water, no toilets (to speak of), and no electricity. We were glad we remembered the flashlight, because this was where we spent the night with an island host family. Non-comfort aside, or more likely thanks to it, this was one experience we will gladly not forget. We climbed over 1000 ft from the lake to the peak of the island, where we stood at about 14,000 ft above sea level. Definitely more of a workout for the lungs than the quads, but worth it for the extraordinary sunset view. Our island host mother was super nice and we did our best to converse in Spanish at meal times while she cooked and served us in her clay hut kitchen swarming with flies and flickering with candlelight.

Islas de Uros de Titicaca de Puno de Peru de...

Our next stop was the city of Puno on the Lake Titikaka. Puno was not too much different from Cuzco, Ollantay, or Aguas outside of location and size; The same restaurants and the same souveniers. However, the Titikaka tour we took was as unique as they come. We started out early in the morning on a boat to the "floating islands" of Uros. These Islands are not named in a figurative nature as I had originally believed; they are actually floating. The quick of it is: the local plentiful reed that grows like a weed in the lake has a root base that, upon decomposition, produces a gas that makes the roots and surrounding soil super bouyant. They take blocks of these root systems, tie them together, lay the reeds themselves on top, and periodically put down new layers of reed. The end result, an honest to goodness floating island with a ground of reeds soft to the step but dry as desert--mostly. The place was exploited by tourism, but they seemed happy enough to have radio and television working on solar powered batteries. Everything was made of this reed, they even ate it. They do not have toilets.

Loki

Our hostel reservations got mixed up again in Cuzco, but this time they gave us a room that belonged in a four-star hotel. You would not believe this room...and in a hostel. King sized bed, two sinks in front of a ginormous mirror in the bathroom, removable shower head with the hottest water, and the view, oh wow, the view. Posting Pics, but again, will not due justice to the real thing. The hostel was called Loki and I can recommend it for services and price, but we will most likely be staying at The Point--Loki's biggest rival hostel--for the next three cities, if alll goes well.

This Little Piggy Had Queso

Pigs in a blanket, sort of: un sol (apx 37 cents). Sketchy street food, but awesome!

Cuzco

Cuzco, as you can imagine, is like most tourist cities. Souveniers, ho(s)tels, restaurants, souveniers, churches, and more souveniers. We ventured out, but not too far. We went to the big local market; about three blocks away we were trying to figure out what on earth could smell so bad. We figured it wasn't pee or poo in the streets or alleys and we didn't see any dead dogs around. When we finally got into the market we almost choked! The first thing we saw were piles and mounds and globs of raw meats for sale in the warm daylight. We practically ran...no, we did run. Which is why there are no pictures for your vomitting--I mean viewing--pleasure, sorry. It was a really cool experience though, to stretch our legs and get out of the tourist race and see some of the city. We've talked to people who had stayed and are staying in Cuzco for weeks. I recommend a couple of days, though there is much to do and see outside of the city.

Our last night there, we going to bed and heard some wicked loud music. We thought it must be comig from the hostel bar, as we had to wear earplugs to hang out there the night before. But it turned out that is was coming from the Plaza de Armas (main square). There was a big concert going on, and we had a pretty sweet view of the thing. So, again, I will do no justice but post the pic anyway.